Sent:
Slip It In/AKA Chong Li (V7)
Could barely do anything on this climb last year. Day 1 was a light day since we had just finished booking it 24 hours from Atlanta to El Paso. Sent this in 2 goes while in a daze. Crimped on the little crimps with nearly everything I had. Dustin Morado style.
Daily Dick Dose (V7)
1st go'd DDD this year. I climbed it twice. First go was super smooth. Second was a little rough and sloppy for the video. [Less than optimal] footage to come.
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| Daily Dick Dose. Photo credit: Jonathan Hung |
Lobster Claw (V5)
Flashed this. Don't remember much about it except it was a super cool climb and that I didn't use the knee bar. I toe hooked and locked off. Usual Ally-beta.
Pumped Full of Semen (V9)
Tried the "big move from the flake" way the first session and gave up quickly. Went back to the Rock Ranch and found a super clutch youtube video of Ana Burgos sending it with different beta. Watched it 20 times. The next day, improvised the short beta and sent it after an hour.
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| PFOS. Photo credit: Jonathan Hung |
See Spot Run (V6)
3 go'd it this year. I would like to say 3 go'd it entirely since I tried to make the first move last year and couldn't reach the diamond pocket first move. Still couldn't make that move this year but improvised with a crappy, little crimp under it. Tried to get footage of this, but they forgot to move the camera after I started climbing. It's an epic 2 minutes of my feet going upwards.
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| See Spot Run. Photo credit: James Conces |
See Sharp (V6)
REVENGE! This was my nemesis from last year. It was supposed to be my first V6. I have massive footage from last year of me flailing at the top. Maybe I'll put together a montage with this year's footage. Or maybe I won't and instead focus on finishing my thesis so I can graduate on time...
FLASHBACK to January 2011...
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| See Sharp. Photo credit: Jeremy Savor??? |
Moonshine Roof (V4)
Flashed. Other than the first big move from the pockets to a shelf, this problem is pretty epic. Toe hooks, heel hooks, lock offs, jugs, and crimps. The only qualm I have is we warmed up on this. I'm still pretty n00b and enjoy warming up on 0s... and slabs with jugs.
New Religion (V7)
Definitely one of my proudest sends ever! Used Nate's beta minus the pogo. Would you believe I nailed the dyno from a crappy sloper hueco and crimp (see below position) to the first hueco above the flake!? Because I totally did!!! 5 foot girl doing the same dyno as her 6 foot tall friends. Woohoooo!!!! (Even though it was more like a hop for them....)
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| Photo credit: James Conces? |
McBain (V8)
This one was so hard for me!!! Showed up at the problem around 2pm and didn't put it down until 4:36pm as the sun was setting. Jonathan helped me improvise beta and figure out how to get my feet up high to hit the first jug. It was so important for my heel to stay on and for me to hit the high part of the vert crimp. After figuring that part out, the problem was not spinning off... after hitting the jug, I kept dabbing hardcore or getting spit off the climb. Last go (the send), I pinched the vertical crimp with all my might as I hit the jug. Pulled a neck muscle while I was at it too. Still recovering.
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| Photo credit: Jonathan Hung |
Maybe next year:
Choir Boys Light (V7)
This is V7?!?!?! This is hard!!! I made like 3 moves on this before epically failing over and over.
Better Eat Your Wheaties (V8)
Made some good moves on this. But it's sharp and painful and I resent this climb for taking two layers of my skin.
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| Photo credit: Jonathan Hung |
Uncut Yogi (V6)
Tried this last year. It's still hard. But less hard. I really want to hit the rail! Extendo arms activate!
No Wonder (V7)
Again, extendo arms... activate! But in all seriousness, I can't reach the pocket pinch. Thus, I have decided to try a cross off the slightly-larger-than-a-mono pocket next year...
Maybe in 10 years:
Chblanke (V11)
I jumped on it to see if I could make the first two moves to the pinch. I made the first two moves. And pulled a hammy. At this rate, I will finish this climb in about 10 years since I haven't done Sign of the Cross either...
Rogered in the Shower(V10)
Did the first two moves to this one too. Then I am pretty much stuck in limbo. Also, note to others... do not look up "rogered in the shower" on google videos. I did this in front of my mom (I have no idea what "rogered" even means) and had a lot of explaining to do...
Power of Landjager (V11)
First 3 moves are jugs. Then there's this crimp that's miles away. Extendo arms!
Ticklist in the making:
I wish we had more time to check out other climbs, but we didn't. So here's a very tentative list for the next trip:
Mr. Serious
Swiss Crisp Mix
Sex After Death
Fight or Flight
That Hi-Pro Glow
Loaded with Power
Adjust Your Attitude
Roughage
Fern Roof
Dragonfly
Guns of Navarone
Unrelated to climbing, our off days were spent in town either playing Settlers of Catan at Starbucks or at the movie theater because movies there are $6.50 instead of $12. El Pasito is the same, still amazing... we recommend the ham and egg burrito. Or if you're like me, ask for double avocados on your steak burrito because that stuff is the bomb diggity!!!
But it's totally not worth it to live in El Paso because most of the drivers there SUCK! They do not stop at stop signs, they make up their own lanes and parking spaces, and don't use turn signals for anything!!! One guy even backed his way out of a parking lot!
Next post, new year's climbing resolution...
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